Celebrate! For the Spring Equinox, the children of San Miguel paraded through the city as animals, butterflies, frogs, bees and countless characters in bright and happy colors on March 21. The sun was hot, the route long, and the town abuzz with music, chants and cheerful reminders for us all to celebrate the Earth and respect the environment, especially the precious water. The spring parade of los niños is one of the best parades I have ever seen, and I particularly appreciated all the hard work of the children, their parents, and their teachers! See for yourself…
We traveled to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, on March 6. As our month in Key West had neared its end, we debated locations in Ecuador (must go there someday), Chile, Oaxaca, a couple of cities in the U.S. and then finalized on San Miguel after finding a beautiful home to rent in el Centro.
In the last two weeks we have found our way around town, had several great meals, met scores of people, many with great stories and all with a love for San Miguel, found our favorite woman (Dominga) to purchase fruits and vegetables from at the nearby market, enjoyed two plays, watched a movie at the local theater, started yoga three times a week with Alejandro (great teacher) and Spanish lessons two or three times a week with Lilia. All that, new explorations and our work find us trying to squeeze our day for more time. While we get a range of U.S. channels, we go days at a time without turning on the television. We have become more skilled at settling into a new location quickly, and here it is proving more valuable because there is so much to do.
This past Wednesday night we were scheduled to meet a local expat and his girlfriend for Happy Hour at Harry's, a local bar/restaurant. We arrived around six, settling in at the crowded bar for 2-for-1 martini night. As has become a reoccurring event, we introduced ourselves to an expat on our left at the bar who is a professional photographer; it would be an enjoyable conversation. He described his efforts to keep his photographer's edge in a world where millions own high-quality digital cameras, know Photoshop and take thousands of photos, one of which will inevitably be a gem. His niche is HDR photography. Have a look at his beautiful work.
Two Four martinis later (always want to learn more about photography), our friends we were loosely scheduled to meet became a no-show, and it was time for dinner. Note to self: Rule #1, warm climate = tall drinks. Rule #2, if you break the first rule = two martini limit.
It was a short but measured walk to Ole' Ole', a restaurant that has become for us a sure thing for a great meal.
We sat down next to four Mexican gentlemen and ordered. I noticed a bottle of Patrón tequila (empty) and a new bottle arriving. I was not used to the freedom of ordering a bottle of liquor for the table, which on reflection is very civilized. It seems we had crashed a birthday party. Introductions were made and a shot of tequila shared with a hearty Feliz Cumpleaños! We ate, we drank, we talked, we laughed -- with some of the latter being directed at our Spanish. We drank some more. During the conversation we learned that one of the men was a bullfighter of some stature, another, the owner of the restaurant, and the other two an engineer and an architect.
Meanwhile, I am learning that an empty glass is an invitation because as my shot glass was being filled, I heard, "otra mi amigo" (another my friend). There is no pause between the two events and the first happens before the latter and that is not a question. This went on for some time as the bottle emptied. Luckily we live only a couple of blocks from the restaurant.
The next day started slowly. By four we were ready for our Spanish lesson. Betsy had volunteered to teach English to the children in our teacher's pilot program, and I spent that time before our lesson talking with the teacher.
Leaving class hungry, we searched for the Venus, a Thai restaurant we had heard so much about, found it and walked in around seven as a guitar player was setting up.
We could not have planned it better. His name is Andrei Krylov from St. Petersburg, Russia. In the 1980s and 90s he worked as a guitarist for the Russian State Concert Company Lenconcert and the Old Petersburg music theater. Since then he has traveled the world playing guitar and has created 50+ albums. He plays Classical, Russian romance, Gypsy, Flamenco, Folk, and Jazz. We watched and listened, sometimes with chills, as this masterful musician willed every ounce of music from his guitar. From Bach to 400-year-old Russian gypsy songs, to jazz, he guided us through his work. We were lucky; on Friday night he gave a concert at the Biblioteca, which we attended and were again captivated by his music.
It's not unusual for this caliber of artists and musicians to appear in San Miguel. The post-Second World War history of San Miguel laid the foundation for this dynamic artistic and cultural city.
These 48 hours are outstanding experiences in our remarkable first two weeks in San Miguel. Many people have told us that their hearts belong to Mexico, and we are beginning to understand why.
After six weeks in Sarasota, Florida, enjoying the Holidays with family and friends, the next road led us 376 miles to Key West, Florida. Our stay became a rich and memorable experience filled with exciting and interesting people in a picturesque and historical setting.
Cayo Hueso is the original Spanish term for Key West. Translated, it means Bone Island, which makes sense because it was a Native American burial ground. Story has it that because in Spanish, Hueso (weso) sounded to English speakers like “west,” Cayo, like key, that eventually it became Key West. Es posible. Characters, legends, and myths abound here with pirates, bootleggers, adventurers, and salvagers central to many stories told in Key West.
Writers and artists migrate to Key West for inspiration, including the most famous, Ernest Hemingway, who wrote many of his most famous novels here including A Farewell to Arms. Other recognizable names include Winslow Homer, Tennessee Williams, and Mario Sanchez.
Hemingway stories seem endless and always engaging, his home is the No. 1 tourist destination in Key West. During our tour, the guide pointed to a much-discussed picture showing a young Ernest with Joseph Kennedy in Havana, Cuba, during Prohibition, which only adds fuel to Ernest’s boozing reputation and the rumors that Kennedy was bootlegging from Cuba. A favorite story is that young Ernest bought that particular home among other reasons because of its proximity to the lighthouse. It was a sales point for Ernest that after a night of drinking at Sloppy Joe’s Bar, the beacon would provide a landmark to guide his way home.
Key West’s unique island milieu of immigrants has the much-deserved reputation for acceptance of people from all persuasions partially explained by its history. As the 19th century ended, Key West had a population of approximately 19,000 and was the richest city in Florida. Half the residents were said to be of Cuban origin. Add the fact that many of the residents of Key West were immigrants from the Bahamas, known as Conchs (pronounced ‘conks’) and pretty soon you understand why Key West has a history of tolerance and acceptance.
Mallory Square, a mecca for shopping and sunset worshipers
We came to Key West for a month-long stay from a Craigslist advertisement that found us residing in a beautifully restored home in the historical district a few short blocks to downtown, Mallory Square, the State Park Beach, and just about anything we needed or wanted. While we drove to Key West, we parked the car and moved it only twice in a month.
The amazing woman we rented from is a longtime resident embedded in the Key West arts community. A ballet dancer for 35 years, she now teaches Pilates and ballet in her home. Her energy level is surreal, going from early morning until late at night. A few years ago she decided to produce a Key West version of the Nutcracker Ballet. Creating it is an amazing story chronicled in an award-winning documentary called, “Underwater, the Making of the Key West Nutcracker.” If you have a chance, be sure to see it. She invested somewhere between .5 and 1.5 million dollars to produce the ballet. Meanwhile, four hurricanes did everything possible to make the production fail. It is a story of triumph over despair and adversity.
To give an idea of production costs, Joyce brings in professional ballet dancers from New York for her Nutcracker to dance along with local talent and children. Added to those costs, the costumes are beautiful and the set is amazing. She had a vision for her ballet and executed it with little consideration for cost.
Our rented home was a busy place, crowns and tutus were being designed and created while we were there. Pilates classes were mostly all day every day. Joyce owns two beautiful homes side-by-side with a supporting cast of a caretaker, housekeeper, and seamstress all with interesting stories of their own. The house activity started around 7 a.m. The caretaker is busy all day with two homes to oversee. We shared our house with Carlos, his room across from ours. He is also an artist, so many evenings he would peddle to Mallory Park to sell his jewelry creations. By evening the houses quieted but many nights we would find Joyce overseeing costume-making and managing preparations for the ballet nine months away.
We had many wonderful conversations with Joyce about her life, studying ballet, raising children, and her passion for dance and now Pilates. We enjoyed those over several delicious meals and cocktails. She leads a rich life. Also staying with Joyce in an apartment in the main house was a highly acclaimed burlesque star Tatah Dujour. It would be a challenge to find a more storied place to stay.
One last story, we arrived home around 11 pm one evening from a movie to find Joyce and a visiting ballet dancer/teacher in the driveway getting ready to ride bicycles to the Green Parrot, a locals’ bar. Joyce is in her early 70’s (you would never know it), she had on a pair of pink satin hot pants, fish net stockings, mid-height boots, and a brightly layered top. I know of no other woman who could have pulled that off and looked so hot. Not to mention the time of night, and the fact she was riding a bicycle about a mile to the bar.
Museum of Art & History
I don’t know what attracts so many interesting people to Key West but we were lucky to have our experience. Our time included a busy work schedule, but in our free time we walked, rode bicycles and explored much of the city. A car is almost useless in the historical district, where we stayed. Bicycles, golf cart-like vehicles, and walking are the easiest ways to get around. One of the prettiest beaches in the country is at Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park, an easy 10-minute bike ride. We spent many evenings walking to Mallory Square with its eclectic mix of artists, craftpeople, and street performers, along with huge crowds of people to watch the sunset.
The Crowd at Mallory Square Capturing a Sunset
For a relatively small community it is chock-full of cultural activities including the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens, The Studios of Key West, The Florida Keys Council of the Arts, Tennessee Williams Theatre, Key West Literary Seminar and much more.
It is a fact, even after our recent stay in New Orleans, this city parties second to none. The number of bars in this relatively small city is said to be well over a hundred. Live music streams from bars and clubs nightly, Duval Street is packed with people, and strolling with open containers is the norm. Perhaps this is why we saw this on a local T-shirt, “This is a drinking town with a fishing problem.”
If you go, one suggestion is to take the Key West Express about a 3.5 hour boat ride from Ft. Myers that takes you within walking distance of downtown. Once in Key West a car is more hassle than it is worth. Walking, biking, cycling, and if necesaary a cab, will take you most places. And the three-hour drive from Miami is no picnic.
Located at the Corner of South Street and Whitehead
Interesting facts…
Conch is the term for longtime residents of Key West. Some use “Saltwater Conch” to refer to a person born in Key West, while “Freshwater Conch” refers to a resident who has lived in Key West for more than seven years.
Wrecking, salvaging from ships that crashed into the third largest reef in the world, made Key West the largest and richest city in Florida in the mid-19th century and the wealthiest town per capita in the U.S.
Jimmy Buffet still maintains a recording studio here. It is on the waterfront in an oddly plain building with no identification.
During the Civil War, Florida seceded but Key West remained in U.S. Union hands because of the naval base.
Harry Truman visited for 175 days over 11 visits during his presidency.
In 1982 the city of Key West briefly declared its “independence” as the Conch Republic in a protest over a United States Border Patrol blockade which wreaked havoc on Key travel. The blockade was in response to the Mariel Boatlift.
Highway 1 ends at Key West and travels 2,377 miles to Fort Kent, Maine.
