San Miguel de Allende, an Expat Mecca

by Mark | Apr 10, 2017 | Pulled Back

The search for an expat life will take many people to world-famous San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The spiritual center of Mexico and a UNESCO World Heritage city where thousands pilgrimage for Holy Week, San Miguel (SMA) is an expat's mecca, complete with vortexes, art, history, culture, famous people, and a nearly perfect climate.

It was our first stop in a six-year long journey to find a place abroad that we could call home. That journey has not ended but we have discovered much about the places we visited, the people we met, and ourselves.

Along this path, we published an anthology called At Home Abroad: Today's Expats Tell Their Stories. Hopefully our three-month stay in San Miguel will catapult you, as it did us, into the wonderful world of living at home abroad.

First Impressions

As our airport shuttle car approached the outskirts of San Miguel, we both sat in silence facing the same question: Have we made the right choice?

Farther into el Centro (downtown) on this bright sunny March afternoon, we found our thoughts lifting and the streets narrowing as our cab bounced along cobblestone streets lined with beautiful colonial buildings of red, blue and yellow gleaming in the sun. The jacaranda in bloom, along with all the magical sights brought the city to life. This was our introduction to the famous artist and expat haven we had read so much about.

After arriving at the La Quinta Hotel in the heart of the city, we found our way to the front desk to claim our reservations for March 7 and 8. We walked through the pretty courtyard and gardens to our $60 USD room. We unpacked for the two nights and then made our way to dinner at Olé Olé, a short right turn out of the hotel and down Loreto Street.

This restaurant had the reputation of having the best fajitas in town with the further inducement that it had been written up in Bon Appetit a few years ago. We ordered fajitas mixta and tortillas mixta (chicken and beef and corn and flour tortillas) and a cold Negra Modelo. We started talking about our day, ordering priorities for the next, but kept coming back to how in the world had they created the flavor of the fajitas. Our first meal in SMA complete, we walked outside as daylight was giving way and the long trip from Miami fading, making way for the lingering flavor of the fajitas. We wondered if our first dinner would serve as a metaphor for the rest of our stay. If so, it would be perfect.

After dinner it was a short walk among the twilight-lit reds and yellows to el Jardin, the social center of San Miguel and our first close up view of the majestic La Parroquia across from the plaza.

This stunning church was built in the 17th century. Later in the 19th century a Gothic facade was added by Zeferino Gutierrez, an indigenous bricklayer and self-taught architect. The hues of the bricks provide a colorful contrast against the blue skies of SMA. It is said to be the most photographed church in Mexico, and there is no reason to doubt it.

Introductions

The following morning breakfast at the La Quinta hotel put our Spanish language skills to the test, eventually rewarding us with our first taste (not the last) of chilaquiles with eggs, an assortment of fresh fruit, and coffee. We were ready to see our new San Miguel home and meet the couple with whom we had arranged our three-month sublet via a local mail list and email.

Energized, we followed Bobbie's instructions for our planned meet-n-greet: "You come left through the artesanias market, up the steps, and staying to the left side, come to the sidewalk where the market ends. There is a sharp left, which is Animas. If you go straight, past the Farmacia Sagrada Corazon, you are on Homobono, go up the block, and turn left onto Presa… We will see you then."

At 10 a.m. as planned we rang the bell and were welcomed by Bobbie and Jose Luis who proved to be warm and generous people, people you feel an immediate bond with. As they showed us their home, we knew we had found a place that more than matched our expectations, the description and shared pictures. Spacious and nicely decorated with local and personal art, the house matched their personalities. The kitchen was fully stocked, including a shelf with cookbooks of local foods; it was obvious they loved to cook. The living space was comfortable, with eye-catching indigenous decorations, and designed for sharing conversation with friends and family. The bedroom included a king bed with plenty of closet space they had graciously cleared and a master bathroom large enough to accommodate two getting ready for the day.

Upstairs we found a deck lined with an assortment of flowers, a small studio apartment including full bath, fridge, and queen bed. From the deck, our courtyard below provided more space for entertaining and enjoying the outdoors. In central SMA at $800 a month including utilities, Internet, maid service twice a week, and a five-minute walk to el Jardin, this home was perfect.

Bobbie and Jose Luis were leaving for the U.S. early the next day so they were busy packing and preparing which meant our time together would be short. After lemonade in the courtyard and get-to-know-you conversation, we hugged, and well wished, with both couples sensing that the right choice had been made. We were handed the keys and gave them a check for the first month's rent.

We were given a full written set of detailed suggestions and instructions — what-to-dos, what-ifs, and personal favorites — which made our first few days so much easier.

Excerpts from the list:

· Doors Snugly Closed because there are insects in the jardinera who might want to come into the house (spiders and scorpions proliferate in the heat of April and May). Also, do not leave any food trash in the patio because feral cats will come to get it and leave a mess.

· Use Sin-Bac for cleaning fruits and veggies.

· Drinking Water. The garrafón of water is on top of the container, and that is what you need to use for drinking. We have left several bottles of water. It usually takes two people to handle the bottle. Always be sure to clean the top of the water bottle before opening it so that no dust accidentally gets into your water supply. Water is easily available at little tiendas on Animas and Presa, even the big bottles.

· Wonderful Bakery on Animas — just cakes, cookies, etc., no bread. It is on the opposite side of the street to the right when you open the door, about half block.

· Market to the left of Animas door, one half block with fruits, veggies, flowers, prepared foods (the shrimp cocktails are very good there), butchers, etc.

· Bonanza on Mesones has absolutely everything. Terrific in-town store.

· How much to pay cab drivers — 25 pesos when it is relatively close, 30 pesos when it is a greater distance. Give the person 25 and see how that works. Pay 30 pesos at night, and pay five pesos more if you have luggage or go to bus station. Always try to have the correct change — your life will be easier that way.

· How much to tip — always at least 10 percent, we usually do 15, but Mexicans tend to do 10.

· Tuesday is the Tianguis Market up at Salida Queretaro, and it is there all day, most people go early a.m. to afternoon. Plenty of good buys on everything you can imagine. You can plan to eat up there — fish, tacos, enchiladas, soups, shrimp cocktails, etc.

· Saturday is the Organic Market at Rosewood on Ancha San Antonio. Plenty of good things to eat.

· Semana Santa — Easter — you are going to be here, and I strongly encourage you to go to every event that you can. Everything will be listed in the Friday edition of Atencion. This is my favorite holiday period in San Miguel. Colorful, funny, poignant, jubilant — it has everything. It starts more than a week before Easter, so make your schedule.

Bobbie and Luis were an invaluable resource; we noted that in the future if we exchange homes or sublet to travelers, or just have visitors, we want to provide the newcomers with similar ammunition to make acquaintance with their new home and city.

Retiring Soon? Let’s Talk Mexico

by Mark | Sep 20, 2016 | Pulled Back

Bacalar, Mexico

We’ve all heard of the ongoing onslaught of baby boomer retirees in the U.S. It’s real. Think about this from the Pew Foundation: “Starting on January 1, 2011, the oldest members of the Baby Boom generation celebrated their 65th birthday and for every day after for the next 19 years, 10,000 Baby Boomers will reach age 65.”

Let that sink in. Today, 10,000 people reached the age of 65 and that will continue for the next 14 years. Yet almost one-third of all workers have no savings at all.Those who do save don’t have much. Median household retirement savings for people aged 55 to 64 in 2013 amounted to $14,500.

The sobering reality is that many retirees face an uncertain and economically challenged retirement.

There are warning voices out there, for instance in this Bloomberg article: “The U.S. retirement landscape is starting to look like a Charles Dickens novel.”

You would think this issue would be front and center in the 2016 political campaign. The debate should be about how many low-income senior housing facilities will be built and how to expand Social Security. But we know that isn’t happening.

We seem to have our collective heads in the sand. In the meantime retirees are searching the planet for places to live that will allow them a decent standard of living. The expat movement is not just about economics, because people of all ages and incomes have chosen the expat lifestyle. But hard realities cause people trying to stretch limited retirement income to look at places around the world for an affordable and rewarding retirement.

One of the most popular is Mexico. The largest contingent of U.S. retirees abroad is already there. Our State Department estimates that one million U.S. citizens live in Mexico. That number is growing fast. For retirees it makes a lot sense. There are several things about Mexico that make it a good fit including the climate, low cost of living, laid-back lifestyle, friendly and warm people, and not to be overlooked, the close proximity to the United States — basically a long car ride or short plane flight. Health care is considered affordable and good. There are reasons why a million or so U.S. citizens call Mexico home.

We have traveled extensively in Mexico, mostly by bus but also car, as we looked for the place we might call home. It was the three months we lived in San Miguel de Allende, one of the longtime expat/retiree communities, that warmed us to the possibilities of settling down in a foreign country. After that we drove through much of the Yucatan, spent a few days in Merida, then bussed to San Cristobal, Oaxaca and then to the West Coast visiting Puerto Escondido and Huatulco. That trip covered roughly 2,200 miles.

There are several expat/retiree hotspots in Mexico. While the largest contingent of North Americans can be found in the Lake Chapala region, San Miguel, Merida, Oaxaca, Pueblo, Guadalajara, Puerto Vallarta and many others are home to significant retiree populations. Much depends on what you want because Mexico is a huge country roughly three times the size of Texas. From mountains to ocean, colonial towns to major cities, most will find a place they can call home.

Now let’s be specific about what a lower cost of living is. Of course it varies, you can read this article on the AARP website: “According to one recent survey, almost half of U.S. expats on the Pacific Coast report living “comfortably” on less than $1,000 a month. (In PV region, $2,000 a month is more like it).” From our experience and research, it is possible to live comfortably on between $1,000–$3,000/month depending on location and lifestyle. At the middle-upper end, the ability to employ maid and gardening services, enjoy meals out, travel and splurge on extras increases.

Sounds great, right? Yet for many, it’s no small thing to leave home to live in another country. Certainly there are adventuresome types who lead the expat lifestyle because they embrace everything involved with living in a new culture. But as mentioned above, there are millions in the process of retiring who will take a hard look based on economics alone. They will need to find the right location, research visas, examine the logistics of moving, begin to learn a new language (the sooner the better for a richer cultural experience, although many current expats don’t know Spanish and don’t need it for everyday living).

We have found many contented expats in Mexico with remarkable stories. Those stories and others prompted us to publish At Home Abroad. These modern-day adventurers have carved out new lives and feel richer for it.

How do you know if this will work for you? The only way to begin is to do some basic research, pick a place that sounds like it might work for you and then go, rent an apartment for two-three months, or spend the winter. Instead of Florida, go to Puerto Vallarta or San Miguel. Join the local Internet groups, find Facebook groups, and connect to retirees already living abroad.

For many this sounds scary and difficult. We guarantee you will gain confidence talking to others who have already gone through the process and by seeing Mexico firsthand. Be open, talk to everyone. Just like anywhere else you will get a variety of opinions but a consensus will emerge to guide your decision.

Hopefully you can take some side trips, hop on a bus (their bus system is wonderful) and experience as much as possible. Choose three or four places that intrigue you. Do you want to be near the ocean or in a colonial town, does a particular climate suit you? These criteria will help you narrow down your choices.

Toward the end of this experiment, you will at least come to realize why so many people have chosen Mexico for their retirement. For retirees on a tight budget, the choice between living sparingly in the U.S. or comfortably in Mexico may become clear. We all deserve a comfortable retirement free from money worries. Good luck on your journey.

Betsy and Mark Blondin have traveled and lived in diverse places in Latin America and Europe during the last six years, meeting expats with wonderful stories that inspired their latest book: At Home Abroad: Today’s Expats Tell Their Stories. They have three grown children and enjoy the slow-travel lifestyle. Betsy is a freelance editor who enjoys helping others publish their work, and Mark is a data storage consultant. Join them at TodaysExpats.com or on Facebook at At Home Abroad for more about the book and its remarkable authors.

Mass Emigration from the U.S.?

by Mark | Oct 14, 2014 | Pulled Back

What’s going on? Are we witnessing mass emigration from the U.S.? What’s the deal with the never-ending get-away articles with tantalizing headlines like, “Best Place to Move Abroad,” “Retire Overseas at Half the Price,” “Top 10 Places to Live,” and “Most Livable Cities”? Do these articles signal a huge movement?

Judging by the weight of articles on the pages of Forbes, AARP, Money, Huffington Post, Kiplinger’s, USA Today, and others, we are led to believe that huge numbers of people are burnt out on the good old USA, don’t like where they live, tired of the rat race, adventuresome, seeking a larger understanding of the world, or can’t afford to stay put. Into the emigrant stew are those who are untethered workers, digital nomads, or just anxious to throw off the yokes of corporate life.

What these articles don’t address is: Why would they leave? What would make them take the risks? Why leave family and friends? What are they looking for? Is there a brotherhood of soon-to-be expats in the making? We’ve been close to this phenomenon and wanted to shine a light on the subject.

What we need is a bull*#*@ meter for articles titled Best, Cheapest, Most Livable, etc. Everyone is getting in on the action. One blog ranked El Paso as the third-best city to retire. Really? Miami was No. 1. Got to love those $15 mojitos.

While a great city, do retirees really want big winters and can they be convinced that Minneapolis is in the running for Top Places to Retire by an article in Huffington Post?

People who can’t find Ecuador on a map read articles such as, “Live on Social Security Like a King,” in reputable magazines and go to Kayak to book a flight and a hotel. Do they speak English there? Que no saben.

Mexico has always had an expat following, but the barrage of articles has gotten out of hand. We fell in love with San Miguel de Allende a couple of years ago, but a recent reader poll in Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards 2013 deemed it the best city in the world. Come on.

By the way, Charleston, South Carolina, was No. 3 in that same poll. Please. It is a nice city but their readers need to get out more.

What’s going on? We need clarity. Let’s hear from real expats, travelers, those actually living abroad. How many expats are there? Who are they? Is there a new type of expat? These questions intrigue us.

For six years we traveled and met amazing expats with a variety of perspectives and reasons to be living abroad. From retirees seeking a lower cost of living, to seasoned perpetual travelers, to everyday people with a curiosity that sends them out into the world.

The subject was so fascinating to us we decided to write a book. Not actually write it but collect stories from new and seasoned expats to get a sense of what is going on and share that first-hand information with our readers.

No catchy headlines, no stories designed to add clicks, but rather a volume of personal accounts from people who decided to leave their home countries for other places. We think it is enlightening. To get a complete picture, we included expat stories from as many countries as possible. TodaysExpats.com

Authors

Who is an Expat?

by Mark | Oct 6, 2014 | Pulled Back

At Home Abroad: Expat Expressions

Is there such a thing as an Expatriate or Expat in 2014? Or are these words lost to the 20th century?

Why are we examining these questions? Because a growing number of people are now living or planning to live abroad, and we’re gathering their modern-day expat stories for an upcoming anthology titled At Home Abroad: Expat Expressions.

We have collected stories from people around the world who have left their countries of birth for various reasons and have captivating stories to tell.

These stories make us consider: Is the definition of expat tied to the amount of time spent away from one’s home? What constitutes home? If all that is left of home is packed in a storage unit and your address is a postal box for gathering mail, are you an expat? Do you need to be disgruntled to be an expat? Is a perpetual traveler an expat?

Many people who work abroad for multi-national corporations self-identify through their blogs and forums as expats.

Then there are people like us who have traveled for years, living in a series of countries, without a home base.

Untethered freelance workers with a lust for travel and cultural experiences can be found just about anywhere on the planet.

Retirees represent a huge bloc of expats. They live in all corners of the world, and they are fascinating and courageous.

Try to buy a domain with the word expat in it. They are in use. Clearly, many of us view ourselves as expats.

While we have much in common, our circumstances are not identical. We feel that all of these groups fall under the category of expatriates or expats, but not everyone agrees with that definition. Some would reserve the word expat for early to mid-20th century travelers. Certainly, the word and the people it represents have a storied history.

Places like Paris and people like Ezra Pound, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott Fitzgerald, T. S. Eliot, Isadora Duncan, and Alan Seeger come to mind. At that time being an expat amounted to a movement.

It’s clear the word has diverse applications, including permanent travelers, people working in other countries, and those retiring abroad. See the definitions at the end of this post.

We don’t need to label the wide variety of lifestyles that involve living or traveling in another country — for our book we’re using the word “expat” to describe people who spend extended periods of time outside their home countries.

Having put the definition challenge behind us, we are excited and proud to say that in the last month or so we’ve been entrusted with amazing expat stories that will encompass the contemporary range of at-home-abroad experiences. They are inspiring, informative, challenging, and thought-provoking. These stories will help illuminate how expats relate to their world.

The adventuresome expat spirit is alive in the 21st century!

And it’s not too late. If you have an expat story, please contact us. Our deadline for submissions is November 1.

Wikipedia
An expatriate (sometimes shortened to expat) is a person temporarily or permanently residing in a country other than that of the person’s upbringing. The word comes from the Latin terms ex (“out of”) and patria (“country, fatherland”).

Cambridge Dictionary

expatriate-noun. someone who does not live in their own country

Angloinfo

An expatriate (often abbreviated to ‘expat’ or sometimes ‘ex-pat’) is a person ‘temporarily or permanently residing in a country and culture other than that of the person’s upbringing or legal residence’. In other words, somebody who isn’t from ‘around here’.

Collins

expatriate-noun. a person who lives in a foreign country

Slow Travel — Then and Now

by Mark | Jun 25, 2014 | Pulled Back

Slow Travel. It’s the art of living in a place for a limited time, immersing yourself in a new culture, learning as much as you can about the people, the language, the life there, and then choosing a new destination and moving on. Repeat again and again.

We’ve done it twice.

The first time was in 1996. We pulled our kids out of their Michigan school, loaded everything we needed into a vehicle, and slow-traveled across the United States for nine months — living in places, not passing through them. We called it Blondins’ Assignment America. The kids attended their local school remotely via the Internet, which in 1996 was not a sentence anyone had ever said before.

The second time started six years ago and is still going — Mexico, Central and South America, Europe. Same instinct, different technology, different world.

What makes us unusual is that we can tell you exactly what changed. We didn’t read about it.

In 1996, high-speed Internet was rare. Google did not exist. Yahoo, Netscape and AltaVista were early players, and wireless was still a dream. We connected wherever we could — dial-up, a laptop, and a 50-foot phone cord. We walked into 7/11s, laundromats, local businesses, libraries and museums with local access numbers, told our story about school via the Internet, and most people agreed to share their phone line. It was always a challenge. We met fascinating people in the process.

We visited an ambitious list of places in just the first month. We documented it as we went, uploading pages to a website that our paper for the U.S. Department of Education — "Families, Technology and Education" — would later reference. We presented to 400 educators in Chicago. We had a 1.2 MP Kodak camera and thought we were well-equipped.

We were.

Fast forward to now. We access the Internet in remote corners of the world with a Wi-Fi code and the ability to ask for it in another language. Folding maps gave way to GPS. The Kodak gave way to a phone that outperforms the laptop we carried across America. Travel sometimes feels too easy — and that’s not entirely a complaint, just an observation from people who remember what it cost to do this the hard way.

The variations of our story are everywhere now. Millions of travelers document their lives in real time, untethered, moving through the world on their own terms. In 1996 we felt like we were inventing something. In some small way, maybe we were.

The technology changed completely. The impulse never did.

The Blondins' Assignment America site remains online, built with Microsoft FrontPage as we traveled. We’ve left it vintage — for historical reasons, and sentimental ones.

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