Thanksgiving 2012, Ecuador, Cuenca, Cajas, Guayaquil

Thanksgiving 2012, Ecuador, Cuenca, Cajas, Guayaquil

Ours was a nontraditional Thanksgiving. After three months of slow travel in Ecuador, we prepared for a full day of travel and exploration and completed it with a remarkable dinner. We were scurrying around by 6:30 a.m. in our Cuenca, Ecuador apartment, where we had lived for the past five weeks, as we finished packing for the next road. The plan was to take a cab to the bus station (Terminal Terrestre) at 10, then a four-hour bus ride to Guayaquil, spend the night and then fly to Panama the next afternoon.

We spent five weeks in our Cuenca apartment, three months in Ecuador.

The cab arrived on time at 10 am. We were on the bus to Guayaquil by 10:30. About 30 km outside  Cuenca we entered Parque Nacional Cajas (Cajas National Park). The highest point of the park is 4,450 meters (14,600 feet), and the park is filled with jagged landscapes and deep valleys. The park's 200-some glacial lakes and lagoons provide about 60 percent of the drinking water for Cuenca. Mountainous views into deep valleys laced with small villages delighted us as we followed the switchbacks between and around the peaks.

Finally, the road leveled out, tropical vegetation everywhere as we made our way to sea level outside Guayaquil pronounced: [ɡwaʝaˈkil]), the largest and most populous city in Ecuador, with around 3.5 million people, and the nation's main port. Guayaquil is located on the western bank of the Guayas River, which flows into the Pacific Ocean at the Gulf of Guayaquil. From the modern Guayaquil bus terminal, we grabbed a cab to our downtown hotel. It was mid-afternoon, and the outside temperature had gone from the Cuenca constant 70 degrees to close to 90. We pulled out the shorts and light shirts and struck out to explore the busy city heading toward the Guayas river. Along the way, we saw the beautiful Metropolitan Cathedral of Guayaquil...

   

 

We wandered across the street to the park, a gathering place for adults and children filled with well manicured trees, flowers and tropical plants. About a city block wide, on this day the place was teeming. We noticed a crowd with cameras poised so we moved in for a closer look. It was a bit of a shock. Iguanas were walking around everywhere. People, children included, were surrounded. It was all a person could do to avoid stepping on their long tails. Some children were leery and needed parental reassuring, but for the most part it was zoo.

 

Okay, we didn't expect that and finally left the park mumbling about the Iguanas, the children's faces and reactions, and the comedy of it all. Having enjoyed some outstanding colonial architecture in Cuenca, we found Guayaquil impressive in size and scope with churches and historical buildings, but structures like this were more dispersed, it took some hunting to find them. A few blocks away we landed on the  Malecón 2000 (boardwalk), considered to be a model of urban renewal and declared a healthy public space by the Pan-American Organization of Health (POH) and the World Health Organization (WHO). We walked the 2.5 km boardwalk with views of several historical monuments, museums, gardens, fountains, shopping malls, restaurants, bars, and food courts.

    We stumbled upon a free concert... The band had a big sound and the crowd enthusiastically supported them. But now it was getting dark and we were hungry. You can set your watch by sunrise and sunset in Ecuador, the days are 12 hours long all year long. By the time we hailed a taxi it was 7 p.m. It was a 30-minute ($4 dollar cab) ride across town to the Riveria restaurant, which had a reputation for great food. We stood outside looking at the menu, and the place was empty so we thought we had the wrong place. We balked at first and then decided to wade in. We were hardly seated when the crowd started to trickle in. By the time we finished ordering, the place was half full and by the end of our meal, there was a wait. We had a great Italian Thanksgiving meal. Luckily we didn't have an early flight. After this day we were thankful to stretch out in our hotel room, prepare some last minute itinerary stuff and relax, e.g. fall asleep. What a day! We arrived at the Guayquil airport the next day easily two hours ahead of our Copa flight to Panama. Our three months in Ecuador were quickly coming to a close and a new chapter a two-hour plane flight away.

Blue Ridge Parkway, A Real American Story

Blue Ridge Parkway, A Real American Story

75th Anniversary Logo, NPS

You might call it a 469-mile piece of paradise, maybe an American feat of ingenuity and beauty, or perhaps a story of putting people to work while building a lasting national treasure.

Blue Ridgeway Parkway view, NC

Whatever you want to call it, if you have a bit of time and want to see something absolutely beautiful with a lot of history, head for The Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia and North Carolina. The experience lives up to the legend.

What is there to celebrate in this, the 75th anniversary year of the Parkway? For starters, it's the longest and most narrow national park in the world and the most visited site in the U.S. National Park system.

The Parkway meanders from the Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive in Virginia to the Cherokee Indian Reservation and Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina. It offers gorgeous views of the Central and Southern Appalachians while passing through 29 counties, five distinct mountain ranges, over four major rivers, and between 649 to 6,047 feet in elevation. There are 847 scenic vistas, 27 tunnels, 169 bridges and 90 historic structures within the park.

Blue Ridge Parkway Tunnel

The Blue Ridge Parkway boasts 47 Natural Heritage Areas, 54 different mammals, more than 50 salamanders and 35 reptiles, and 159 species of birds.

Miles and miles of nature, hiking trails, streams and waterfalls, camping, picnicking, towns and local attractions to explore, and ideal roadway for biking and motorcycling are all part of the Parkway journey.

So much American history and culture lives along the Parkway, you can spend days exploring it by vehicle, stopping at the overlooks, visitor centers, and major highlights. Or you can spend weeks or even months hiking and camping along this, the longest recreational road in America.

BRP, Linville River

From early Native American and American settlement history to 1935 when construction began as a public works project, to 1987 when the last segment was finally completed, and to today, the Blue Ridge Parkway has become the most visited park in the national park system.

President Franklin Roosevelt had the foresight, landscape architect Stanley W. Abbott and others had the design vision, and 1930s America had the workers to commence construction. The Works Progress Administration's first contract paid men 30 cents per hour for six-day work weeks. Also involved were Emergency Relief Administration crews and personnel from four Civilian Conservation Corps camps. During World War II, the CCC crews were replaced by conscientious objectors in the Civilian Public Service program.

You can travel the entire length of the park or hop on and off at various connections to state and local roads. During our two-month stay in western North Carolina, we have traveled the Parkway within the state three times and seen

Flat Top Manor, Moses Cone Memorial Park

most of the stretch between Boone and Asheville, including visits to Moses Cone Memorial Park and Flat Top Manor, Julian Price Memorial Park, Linn Cove Viaduct, Linville Falls, the Folk Art Center, and the town of Blowing Rock. We would love to visit and hike more, so we imagine we'll be back soon.

Mark under Linn Cove Viaduct

Because no signage exists along the road and utility lines are buried, you travel through an area as natural as can be, and at a 45-mph speed limit, you sometimes feel that not only have you stepped into nature but also back in time.

We recently saw a documentary about the Blue Ridge Parkway on PBS, which included a discussion of the cost and resources necessary to maintain the Parkway and whether it is worthwhile. No doubt exists in our minds that any national treasure this beautiful, useful, income-generating to localities and job-providing is absolutely worth maintaining and preserving, whatever the cost.

For more information:

National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, http://www.nps.gov/blri

Blue Ridge Parkway 75, Inc., http://blueridgeparkway75.org

Romantic Asheville.com, Blue Ridge Parkway Guide, http://www.romanticasheville.com/BlueRidgeParkway.htm

Smithsonian.com, "75 Years of the Blue Ridge Parkway," http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/75-Years-of-the-Blue-Ridge-Parkway.html?c=y&page=1