by Mark | Mar 6, 2011 | Deep In It
This is a brand new four-day holiday weekend for Argentina in conjunction Carnival. To kick it off, we spent a quiet Saturday catching up on some work and reading and then went to the amazing park a few blocks from here to relax, take in some sun and an amazing collection of people.
But today we will adventure to El Tigre about 28 km north of here. What makes Tigre especially interesting is that it is the jumping off point for the Parana Delta. We will catch the #130 bus shortly to the Retiro train station and then our first train ride — on to Tigre!
Here is a bit more of what we know to expect… more later.
It was a short bus ride to the Retiro train station. Our first thought was that the reports of a busy extended holiday weekend were exaggerated.
Retiro Train Station ©2011
But as we made our way to the ticket counter, that thought was quickly dispelled. Two long lines extended outside the station. The lines moved quickly, the purchase (about 5,60 pesos for two) went smoothly and we made our way to the tracks where this scene unfolded. It seemed like a large percentage of Buenos Aires’ 15 million residents had the same idea as us.
Boarding for Tigre
Once the train was in position with doors open, any concept of lines was broken as a rush to the front seeking a seat for the 45-60 minute ride ensued. Unfortunately, we did not play the game well and ended up standing. The train made its way through the city and out into the suburbs.
Ride to El Tigre
This was the scene as we left the train at El Tigre. We traveled in the last car so we had a unique vantage point.
The Scene at the El Tigre Platform
We held the rear position as this mass of humanity made its way for several blocks to the amusement park, market, water-taxis into the delta, the casino and lunch. The group was like a quarter-mile human snake.
The Long March
We stopped at the local tourist office and gathered some much needed intel. It was confirmed that the boat rides to the delta are reasonably priced with lots of options like how far and long you want to travel. The catch was, this weekend was a holiday so the wait times for tickets were exceedingly long. We decided to save that excursion for another day.
The river scene was amazing. This is one of my favorite shots.
And another…
Picturesque River Scene
Our destination was the popular market (mercado) in Tigre so we were able to follow the crowd to the entrance.
Along the way we stopped in the Casino, both for a bathroom break and to put a few pesos into the slots. The casino was familiar and similar to an American casino in setting and style. I mentioned earlier there are several things to do in Tigre.
Going for the Jackpot
Our 50 pesos ($12.50US) in the 25-cent machine lasted longer than expected, but the end result was to skip the buffet (about $12.50) and move on to the market.
Right next to the casino is the local amusement park which from the looks on some of the faces of the children (hijos) must be pretty cool. All we could make out from our vantage point was the roller coaster.
Amusement Park Entrance
Following the crowd that had not dropped off on either the boat rides to the delta, the casino or the amusement park we found the entrance to the market. The market was large (grande) and the temperature rising as we wove our way through the vast market.
Market Entrance
This market had a much different flavor than the ones we have previously visited. There were many small specialty stores much like you would think of in the United States. There were only a few fruit markets while there were scores of household item specialty shops. Kitchen, furniture and decorative shops were the most prevalent, along with a few leather shops, baby shops, a couple of nurseries, gift shops, etc.
Home and Kitchen Shop
Wicker Shop
Lamp Shop
Local Merchandise
Gourds
The flowers (flores) below were one of the more popular items of the day. Lots of people purchased them and we were tempted. They were really well done, bright, and cheerful.
Colorful Flowers ©2011
Another Source for Flowers
Waffles on a stick.This was the first time we had seen waffles this way. We tried one filled with apple (manzana) and it was tasty. The options were fruit filling or ham and cheese and others. Did I mention chocolate?
Waffles of the World
Waffles on a Stick
After shopping a while we decided to break for lunch. We found a small restaurant where we could sit at the bar. Menus are still difficult to fully translate.
Here are just a few more river scenes. The boats below are loosely called grocery boats and make their way up the delta to the various islands, restaurants and communities.
Grocery Boats
The river scene caught our attention because it is so unusual.
Mixed passage
Captivating
Typical Small Boat
Typical Long Boat
Our feet were sore and the afternoon was getting on so we decided to make our way back to the train station. I know some of you will be skeptical, but on the way Betsy suggested a quick stop in the casino for the bathrooms and 10 more pesos for the slot machine. This time we sat down at a $1 peso machine. It was literally a spin or two later that the machine started to flash and the Argentine man next to us got very animated, Spanish spilling like a waterfall from his mouth. We were clueless, catching only a few of his words. He became more animated in the next few seconds, his language faster and more intense. Finally he indicated we should push a slightly obscure button.
Oh boy! Now things were happening — the lights flashed and large “dollar” tokens, bigger and heavier than a 50 cent piece started pouring from the machine and making a banging noise that added to everything else going on. It was wildly exciting. Two hundred of these coins spewed out but in spurts of 10 or so, the man was laughing and we were laughing. He kept talking. The money tray was filling up. He indicated to Betsy she needed to do something. Well that something was to go get some of those plastic coin cups you have probably seen. Half understanding she took off to find one. Meanwhile we had drawn something of a crowd as Betsy returned with dos cups and we starting scooping. Coins were spilling on the floor as we scooped, everyone was laughing at our good luck, and we were having too much fun.
We spent another hour or so there and walked away with $188 pesos, enough for a good dinner. It is times like these that not speaking the language takes away from – and at the same time adds to – the experience. It would have been great to know what the man was saying. He was more excited than we were and it was contagious. It was all the more humorous that we had no idea what people around us were saying. The whole scene was hilarious.
Light-footed from our good luck, we made our way back to the train station but decided to take the #60 bus home instead. On the way we couldn’t help but notice this magnificent building.
Edificio Rio Mayor
The ride was long but brought us right to Avenida Sante Fe, a few blocks from our apartment. We bought some bread (pan) and a brownie and then stopped at the apartment briefly to put our feet up. About 9 pm we went to the local parrilla (grill) for some dinner.
What to Have?
We both had sandwiches that were delicious and decided we would come back again.
It is now Monday here, late in the afternoon (la tarde). We had a conversational Spanish lesson today with Azul, who is much fun, for about an hour and a half that was very helpful. We talked about restaurants, vocabulary, the alphabet and worked on pronunciation. Come to find out Mollejas on the menu above are a personal favorite of our young Spanish tutor and she insists they are not to be missed. She confirmed what we were learning — that in Argentina they eat all of the cow.
by Mark | Mar 5, 2011 | Deep In It
For the most part I will let this article in the Argentina Independent explain but I do have some comments (see below).
But first, since we are visitors here and don’t want to be seen as complainers, that article says it well:
“One of South America’s most electrifying cities, graced with European culture, architecture, atmospheric neighbourhoods and a bustling nightlife. With a variety of parks, museums, fancy restaurants, boutiques and funky bars, this city of porteños offers something for everyone. Not a weird thing many foreigners fall in love with it, you would think…”
A Beautiful Park in Buenos Aires
Top Five Annoyances in Buenos Aires
#1 This problem is not a severe as what we found in Spain but it is real. If you mistep, it takes a couple of blocks to fully get over it.
#2 It is surprising how long it takes to catch on to this one. Some of it comes in the form of a misty rain, other times it is full fledge drops which can be mistaken for the dreaded bird spillage. The all too common wet spot is a giveaway so you quickly learn to avoid those.
#3 Because of #1 and #2 it is critical to focus your eyes downward, which is helpful for this one since any mishap in this walking city would put you on the sidelines quickly. When new to the city, it’s a challenge to avoid this hazard while viewing the spectacular architecture above you. Brisk walking is a feat of extreme dexterity.
#4 We have not been exposed or disrupted by this and have only witnessed it in Plaza de Mayo (pronounced like masho) where there are always banners present. But I love a good act of civil disobediance and look forward to our first.
#5 This is a problem of the highest magnitude. For our first week it was a total mystery. An inexplicable unavailability. Now we know. We should have noticed these signs. The other day a grocery bill came to 24 pesos, I provided 25 which resulted in a brief but intense mental tug of war. Sell not sell, how badly did I need it, each trying to figure out if the other had a reserve. It is common to get a 50-centavo deduction if the sale is important enough for the shop owner and/or you are a good bluffer. Preparing for a bus ride takes forethought since they only accept monedas.
by Mark | Mar 4, 2011 | Deep In It
The plot thickens as we enter our third week in Buenos Aires. Up bright and early, by 7:30 am we were out of the house making our way to the bus stop for the #130 bus to take us to Puerto Madero, the newest part of the city very near San Telmo where we rented our first apartment.
Today Betsy started a new job teaching English for an Brazilian technology company called Politec with offices in the U.S., Japan, Chile, and here. She had two classes, the first starting at 8:30 am with two advanced students and the second quickly following at 9:30 with an intermediate student. While the pay isn’t great, the opportunity to mingle with residents of the city while applying her notable English skills is pretty cool. Betsy could become famous here once word of her English skills spreads. Plus as we stood at the bus stop on this bright, sunny Thursday morning, it was a pinch-me moment. Are we really doing this?
Since I have a responsibility not to pollute the English language here in Buenos Aires, it fell upon me to take a hike, so off I went to explore. It was a beautiful morning in Puerto Madero.
A View across the Water ©2011
As I headed East into Puerto Madero toward the River de la Plata, the scene changed to new high-rises with beautiful avenues and parks. The construction is ongoing as this area is booming for young middle class professionals and retirees.
A View along the Water ©2011
Long story made short, this port was designed in the late 19th century but was not deep enough to handle larger cargo ships so a new port was developed soon after, which left Puerto Madero to become a blighted area of the city. Various plans were developed to renovate the area, but it was not until the late 20th century that this plan was adopted to revitalize the area.
As I headed farther east, I came across these stairs to a park…
Stairway to a Park ©2011
The stairs led to a manicured walkway just above the main north-south street and causeway that parallels the ecological reserve where city ends and wildlife begins. There were many famous urban architects responsible for the design of Puerto Madero, and one interesting detail is that all the streets are named after women of significance in Argentina.
Here along the easternmost street, there are sunbathers, bikers, runners and sightseers along with a collection of local foods.
Su Parrillon ©2011
By now it was getting time to circle back to meet Betsy. To give you an idea of the planning and design of Puerto Madero, just past the sidewalk grill was this open area. Off to the right is the beginning of the ecological reserve.
Roman Style Sitting Area ©2011
Heading back west down a wide boulevard I encountered something pretty typical, the local dog walking experts.
Dog Walking Party ©2011
At this point I was thinking I might be late (read get lost) to meet Betsy, so my pace quickened and I just starting snapping pictures at random. Enjoy…
Couldn’t Resist the Contrast ©2011
Arty City Picture ©2011
Warehouses Turned Lofts, Shops, and Businesses ©2011
By now I was breathing hard and sweating, it was hot in the city, but mastering a big-city gait I pulled up long enough to take this picture mid-crossing.
A picture of the mix of old and new…
Mix of Old and New ©2011
I made it back to Paseo Colon, hung a left on Estados Unidos and found my way to a coffee shop just around the corner from Betsy’s workplace (I know, some of you are wondering how I navigated this on my own) with 15 minutes to spare.
She found me right after 11 and we struck out across Estados Unidos to take the Green Line subway back north to our neighborhood.
Warm Subway Ride to Palermo
We had a quick lunch at home and then took a short six-block walk to Santa Fe Avenue to meet Nico (the first apartment caretaker) to return the keys.
On the way back we stopped in a bakery and did some window shopping along Godoy Street, establishing plans to return to a couple of restaurants and cafes. Then a much-needed siesta.
At 4, our Spanish teacher arrived. We are in the process of taking several hour-long classes from different tutors to see which one(s) work best for us. Again, since this one, like the first, didn’t seem to like to speak English, I kept hoping she would talk to Betsy more. By the time she left, both our heads were swimming.
It is about 8 pm, this post is over. We are headed out to see if we can buy a Spanish lesson book that was recommended.
Chau!
by Mark | Mar 1, 2011 | Deep In It
Last night we met with a local group of interesting expats for drinks. Some of you may know there is a U.S.-based group called Drinking Liberally. As the name suggests, the group began as a place for liberals to meet, drink and socialize. Below is the U.S. map of organized chapters. Come to find out, a local group of expats started their chapter in BA about three years ago.
Drinking Liberally Chapter Map
To get there, we jumped on the 111 bus about four blocks from our apartment at around 8:30 and headed to the restaurant 20 blocks or so away. These buses travel at warp speed in a driving style similar to mine with a heavy mix of steroids.
So for us, hanging on while looking for the street signs to know where to get off results in at best a 50/50 chance of coming within a three to four block radius. At nighttime it really is just intuition. Knowing when to hit the stop buzzer is everything. We just made the odds last night with a three-block walk. Remember we are still relatively new at this.
The group was varied, shop owners, business types, travelers, bloggers, young and old, men and women, about 20 in all. Most of the expats have been in BA several years. I sat next to a 40-something Apple application writer visiting from London for two weeks . Everyone welcomed the newcomers and was generous with inside information about the city. We even talked politics. Mike is the organizer: http://www.yanquimike.blogspot.com/ and we sat near Frank, who was very interesting and knowledgeable with a thriving business selling sweets to companies large and small: http://www.sugarandspice.com.ar/.
Around midnight we made our way back to the stop for the 168 bus ride back to the apartment—a sobering experience in itself. We found our way to bed around 1 am, which is pretty early BA time.
Drinking Liberally Chapters
Last night we met with a local group of interesting Expats for drinks. There is a U.S.-based group called Drinking Liberally. As the name suggests, the group began as a place for liberals to meet, drink and socialize. Below is the U.S. map of organized chapters. Come to find out, a local group of expats started their chapter in BA about three years ago.
