The Disappeared in Argentina

The Disappeared in Argentina

Siempre con las madres                                           Always with the mothers

Siempre con las madres ©2011

Every Thursday afternoon for more than 30 years, mothers and grandmothers of “the disappeared” (los desaparecidos) and their supporters have gathered and marched around Plaza de Mayo in front of the Casa Rosada in Buenos Aires.

During the Dirty War of the military dictatorship in Argentina (1976 to 1983) it’s estimated that anywhere between 9,000 and 30,000 people disappeared. They were predominately trade unionists, students, journalists, Peronists, and people opposed to the military rule. Imprisonment, torture, detention centers that some call concentration camps — it’s not a pretty story. It’s also estimated that around 500 of those who disappeared were the babies of women imprisoned during those years.

U2 has a song about the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, and when U2 performed in Buenos Aires in March, “Mothers of the Disappeared” was performed. Sting, Ruben Blades, and Joan Baez have also immortalized in music the plight of mothers of the disappeared.

Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo  ©2011

The mothers and grandmothers want to know what happened to the disappeared and the babies. Rep. Maurice Hinchey (D-NY) has proposed legislation this year and in each of the previous three years, that would have required the U.S. to release records and documents that could help the mothers find out what happened to their children and the others. In the last vote, in May, the amendment was defeated by just 20 votes.

It seems way past time for the United States to release this information. It’s just short of 30 years since the military dictatorship ended in 1983. If these were our babies and Argentina had information that could help us determine what happened to them, what would we want? Wouldn’t we want Argentina to release that information, even if it revealed some ‘dirty little secrets’ about Argentina? Doesn’t the world already know that the U.S. has ‘dirty little secrets’?

“Groups like the Madres are needed to serve as a reminder, not only to Argentina but also to the world, of the atrocities that can be committed by governments in the name of patriotism.” –Jeff Barry, Author of 4 Perfect Days in Buenos Aires.

Siempre con las madres.

———

Video from our afternoon with las madres at Plaza de Mayo.

Ilene Squires has some great photos here on her blog.

 

Casa Rosada on a Beautiful Sunday in March

Casa Rosada on a Beautiful Sunday in March

"Paisaje anterior a la Casa Rosada" by Nicolás García Uriburu, located in Casa Rosada

Sunday morning we were out of the apartment around 11 headed for the Green Subte Line on Santa Fe about eight blocks away for a long postponed visit to Casa Rosada, the official seat of the executive branch of the government of Argentina located in Plaza de Mayo.

Even though we spent the first two weeks in BA living in an apartment a few blocks away and had passed through Plaza de Mayo (pronounced Masho) several times, we had not toured the Presidential Palace. In a recent Huffington Post article Casa Rosada was among the top 13 palaces of the world. One night passing through the plaza we caught this stunning image which explains why it is called the Pink House.

Casa Rosado

The rain on Saturday had finally broken the heat wave that had gripped Buenos Aires for several days that had even porteños (local word for BA residents) complaining, given that summer is coming to a close here in the southern hemisphere.

We actually wore jeans and long sleeve shirts as the sun shone and temps hovered around 70 degrees. The subway line was pleasantly unpopulated as we journeyed several stops to the southern portion of the city at the end of the Green Line.

Catedral

Emerging from the subway near Plaza de Mayo we were struck again by the architectural beauty of this part of the city. The next thing we noticed was a long line around the Buenos Aires House of Culture.

Curiously long line

Obviously we had not been reading the same sources for activities in the city because as we made our way to the front of this tremendous line we discovered local television media interviewing people.

Come to find out Placido Domingo (now 70) is giving a free concert here March 23 and the line was for tickets to get one of the 22,000 chairs that will be provided for this free outdoor concert. The rest of us will need to bring chairs or stand. This is a good article describing the event. Look for us there.

Here is a nice photo of the Buenos Aires House of Culture...

Mark Photo Op at the Entrance

Mark Photo Op at the Entrance

We made our way across the Plaza and into the Palace. The entry was stunning with a series of paintings and busts depicting national heroes. The free tour began as we made our way to the 2nd floor. One interesting fact is that this building houses the current executive offices for the government of Argentina (it is a working palace) so these tours are only offered on weekends. It is closed to the public M-F.

José de San Martín (1778-1850)

I won't go into history here but suffice it to say, José de San Martín (c. 1778 – 17 August 1850) is a national hero given credit for liberating Argentina from Spain.

Evita Perón images were widely displayed as well. While I like to read about politics in all of the Americas, including South America, I am no expert and can only give my impressions. It seems that Evita has a similar national reverence as FDR has in the U.S. and for similar reasons. She was a champion of the poor and those in need. Perhaps Obama might take note of what it takes to become a leader who earns a place in history. This photo displayed inside was especially compelling.

Evita Photo from Palace

On October 15, 1945, at 11 pm, Evita stepped on to the balcony before an estimated 250,000-350,000 people gathered in the plaza below to demand the release from prison of her soon-to-be husband, Juan Perón. The scene must have been electrifying. Two days later he was released, and on October 18, they were married.

This husband and wife team (below) have dominated Argentine politics for the last decade. Néstor Carlos Kirchner served from 2003-2007, died from a heart attack and then was succeeded by his wife, Cristina Kirchner in the 2007 election.

From what I read, Cristina Kirchner is popular and does well in polling for the next presidential election. She has been referred to as the "Hillary Clinton" of South America. She heads the Peronist Party here that leans to the left politically.

Okay, enough politics. From this point I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

The Casa Rosada is obviously striking.

Here is the view looking out, which fills the mind with images of what the crowded scene must have looked like as Evita spoke from the balcony.

View from the Balcony

Okay, another photo op...

Beautiful

And one of me from the balcony...

We continued the tour with stops in the executive offices.

National Seal

This stained glass wall caught our attention...

The second floor was a nice vantage point for the courtyard.

Wait, another photo op. Here is one of Betsy and I taken by our guide who spoke Spanish, Portugese and English.

Okay, my turn. Here is an arty shot looking up.

As the tour ended, we were escorted out the back door with these nice views of the city.

From the Back Porch

Argentina Flag

Top 5 Annoyances in Buenos Aires

Top 5 Annoyances in Buenos Aires

For the most part I will let this article in the Argentina Independent explain but I do have some comments (see below).

But first, since we are visitors here and don’t want to be seen as complainers, that article says it well:

“One of South America’s most electrifying cities, graced with European culture, architecture, atmospheric neighbourhoods and a bustling nightlife. With a variety of parks, museums, fancy restaurants, boutiques and funky bars, this city of porteños offers something for everyone. Not a weird thing many foreigners fall in love with it, you would think…”

A Beautiful Park in Buenos Aires

Top Five Annoyances in Buenos Aires

#1 This problem is not a severe as what we found in Spain but it is real. If you mistep, it takes a couple of blocks to fully get over it.

#2 It is surprising how long it takes to catch on to this one. Some of it comes in the form of a misty rain, other times it is full fledge drops which can be mistaken for the dreaded bird spillage. The all too common wet spot is a giveaway so you quickly learn to avoid those.

#3 Because of #1 and #2 it is critical to focus your eyes downward, which is helpful for this one since any mishap in this walking city would put you on the sidelines quickly. When new to the city, it’s a challenge to avoid this hazard while viewing the spectacular architecture above you. Brisk walking is a feat of extreme dexterity.

#4 We have not been exposed or disrupted by this and have only witnessed it in Plaza de Mayo (pronounced like masho) where there are always banners present. But I love a good act of civil disobediance and look forward to our first.

#5 This is a problem of  the highest magnitude. For our first week it was a total mystery. An inexplicable unavailability. Now we know. We should have noticed these signs. The other day a grocery bill came to 24 pesos, I provided 25 which resulted in a brief but intense mental tug of war. Sell not sell, how badly did I need it, each trying to figure out if the other had a reserve. It is common to get a 50-centavo deduction if the sale is important enough for the shop owner and/or you are a good bluffer. Preparing for a bus ride takes forethought since they only accept monedas.