Plácido Domingo Alfresca

Plácido Domingo Alfresca

Last night we joined the estimated 125,000 people gathered at the Obelisk located at the interesection of avenues Corrientes and 9 de Julio for a free outdoor concert by opera legend José Plácido Domingo Embil.  He was joined by soprano Virginia Tola and accompanied by the choir and orchestra of the Teatro Colón under the direction of Eugene Kohn. The repertoire included arias, operettas and even tangos and lasted over three hours. Wow.

Part of the enormous crowd – yes, that is the stage way up there!

Here is a short video to provide a feel for the moment…

 

 

Casa Rosada on a Beautiful Sunday in March

Casa Rosada on a Beautiful Sunday in March

"Paisaje anterior a la Casa Rosada" by Nicolás García Uriburu, located in Casa Rosada

Sunday morning we were out of the apartment around 11 headed for the Green Subte Line on Santa Fe about eight blocks away for a long postponed visit to Casa Rosada, the official seat of the executive branch of the government of Argentina located in Plaza de Mayo.

Even though we spent the first two weeks in BA living in an apartment a few blocks away and had passed through Plaza de Mayo (pronounced Masho) several times, we had not toured the Presidential Palace. In a recent Huffington Post article Casa Rosada was among the top 13 palaces of the world. One night passing through the plaza we caught this stunning image which explains why it is called the Pink House.

Casa Rosado

The rain on Saturday had finally broken the heat wave that had gripped Buenos Aires for several days that had even porteños (local word for BA residents) complaining, given that summer is coming to a close here in the southern hemisphere.

We actually wore jeans and long sleeve shirts as the sun shone and temps hovered around 70 degrees. The subway line was pleasantly unpopulated as we journeyed several stops to the southern portion of the city at the end of the Green Line.

Catedral

Emerging from the subway near Plaza de Mayo we were struck again by the architectural beauty of this part of the city. The next thing we noticed was a long line around the Buenos Aires House of Culture.

Curiously long line

Obviously we had not been reading the same sources for activities in the city because as we made our way to the front of this tremendous line we discovered local television media interviewing people.

Come to find out Placido Domingo (now 70) is giving a free concert here March 23 and the line was for tickets to get one of the 22,000 chairs that will be provided for this free outdoor concert. The rest of us will need to bring chairs or stand. This is a good article describing the event. Look for us there.

Here is a nice photo of the Buenos Aires House of Culture...

Mark Photo Op at the Entrance

Mark Photo Op at the Entrance

We made our way across the Plaza and into the Palace. The entry was stunning with a series of paintings and busts depicting national heroes. The free tour began as we made our way to the 2nd floor. One interesting fact is that this building houses the current executive offices for the government of Argentina (it is a working palace) so these tours are only offered on weekends. It is closed to the public M-F.

José de San Martín (1778-1850)

I won't go into history here but suffice it to say, José de San Martín (c. 1778 – 17 August 1850) is a national hero given credit for liberating Argentina from Spain.

Evita Perón images were widely displayed as well. While I like to read about politics in all of the Americas, including South America, I am no expert and can only give my impressions. It seems that Evita has a similar national reverence as FDR has in the U.S. and for similar reasons. She was a champion of the poor and those in need. Perhaps Obama might take note of what it takes to become a leader who earns a place in history. This photo displayed inside was especially compelling.

Evita Photo from Palace

On October 15, 1945, at 11 pm, Evita stepped on to the balcony before an estimated 250,000-350,000 people gathered in the plaza below to demand the release from prison of her soon-to-be husband, Juan Perón. The scene must have been electrifying. Two days later he was released, and on October 18, they were married.

This husband and wife team (below) have dominated Argentine politics for the last decade. Néstor Carlos Kirchner served from 2003-2007, died from a heart attack and then was succeeded by his wife, Cristina Kirchner in the 2007 election.

From what I read, Cristina Kirchner is popular and does well in polling for the next presidential election. She has been referred to as the "Hillary Clinton" of South America. She heads the Peronist Party here that leans to the left politically.

Okay, enough politics. From this point I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

The Casa Rosada is obviously striking.

Here is the view looking out, which fills the mind with images of what the crowded scene must have looked like as Evita spoke from the balcony.

View from the Balcony

Okay, another photo op...

Beautiful

And one of me from the balcony...

We continued the tour with stops in the executive offices.

National Seal

This stained glass wall caught our attention...

The second floor was a nice vantage point for the courtyard.

Wait, another photo op. Here is one of Betsy and I taken by our guide who spoke Spanish, Portugese and English.

Okay, my turn. Here is an arty shot looking up.

As the tour ended, we were escorted out the back door with these nice views of the city.

From the Back Porch

Argentina Flag

MALBA

MALBA

We visited the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de  Buenos Aires (MALBA) today.

MALBA ©2011

The mission statement from the MALBA Web site:

"Its main objectives are to educate the public and arouse their interest in Latin American artists, contributing to the knowledge of Latin American cultural productions promoting the recognition of cultural and artistic diversity of this region, and share responsibility for this effort with the national community and internationally to promote artistic exchange between national, regional and international support innovative programs centered in the visual arts and American culture."

The inside of this modern building is striking.

Inside MALBA ©2011

Another view...

Another View ©2011

The work of Grete Stern was the featured exhibit. Here are three of her photos taken from the MALBA Web site and you can see more here.

Bottle of the sea

Grete Stern
Bottle of the sea (Dream No. 5) , 1950
Black and white photo collage on paper
Eduardo F. Collection Costantini, Buenos Aires

 

On the platform

Grete Stern
On the platform (Dream No. 2) , 1949
Black and white photo collage on paper
19 x 28 cm
Eduardo F. Collection Costantini, Buenos Aires

Flower Child

Grete Stern
Flower Child (Dream No. 11) , 1948
Black and white photo collage on paper
29.5 x 23.5 cm
Eduardo F. Collection Costantini, Buenos Aires

We saw works from Freida Kahlo, Nicola Costantino, Liliana Maresca,  Magdalena Jitrik, and Graciela Hasper among others including these...

 

Diego Rivera. Portrait of Ramón Gómez de la Serna or Portrait of Ramón Gómez de la Serna, 1915

Alejandro Xul Solar. Pareja, 1923

 

Rafael Barradas. kiosk ducts (duct's kiosk), 1918

It was a great start to learning more about Latin American artists.

We decided to walk home about a mile. We passed several parks and plazas along Avenida del Libertador, including the Japanese Gardens which we will visit soon.

 

 

Four-Day Holiday Weekend

Four-Day Holiday Weekend

This is a brand new four-day holiday weekend for Argentina in conjunction Carnival. To kick it off, we spent a quiet Saturday catching up on some work and reading and then went to the amazing park a few blocks from here to relax, take in some sun and an amazing collection of people.

But today we will adventure to El Tigre about 28 km north of here. What makes Tigre especially interesting is that it is the jumping off point for the Parana Delta. We will catch the #130 bus shortly to the Retiro train station and then our first train ride -- on to Tigre!

Here is a bit more of what we know to expect... more later.

It was a short bus ride to the Retiro train station. Our first thought was that the reports of a busy extended holiday weekend were exaggerated.

Retiro Train Station ©2011

But as we made our way to the ticket counter, that thought was quickly dispelled. Two long lines extended outside the station. The lines moved quickly, the purchase (about 5,60 pesos for two) went smoothly and we made our way to the tracks where this scene unfolded. It seemed like a large percentage of Buenos Aires' 15 million residents had the same idea as us.

Boarding for Tigre

Once the train was in position with doors open, any concept of lines was broken as a rush to the front seeking a seat for the 45-60 minute ride ensued. Unfortunately, we did not play the game well and ended up standing. The train made its way through the city and out into the suburbs.

Ride to El Tigre

This was the scene as we left the train at El Tigre. We traveled in the last car so we had a unique vantage point.

The Scene at the El Tigre Platform

We held the rear position as this mass of humanity made its way for several blocks to the amusement park, market, water-taxis into the delta, the casino and lunch. The group was like a quarter-mile human snake.

The Long March

We stopped at the local tourist office and gathered some much needed intel. It was confirmed that the boat rides to the delta are reasonably priced with lots of options like how far and long you want to travel. The catch was, this weekend was a holiday so the wait times for tickets were exceedingly long. We decided to save that excursion for another day.

The river scene was amazing. This is one of my favorite shots.

And another...

Picturesque River Scene

Our destination was the popular market (mercado) in Tigre so we were able to follow the crowd to the entrance. Along the way we stopped in the Casino, both for a bathroom break and to put a few pesos into the slots. The casino was familiar and similar to an American casino in setting and style. I mentioned earlier there are several things to do in Tigre.

Going for the Jackpot

Our feet were sore, so we sat down at a $1 peso machine. It was literally a spin or two later that the machine started to flash and the Argentine man next to us got very animated, Spanish spilling like a waterfall from his mouth. We were clueless, catching only a few of his words. He became more animated in the next few seconds, his language faster and more intense. Finally he indicated we should push a slightly obscure button.

Oh boy! Now things were happening -- the lights flashed and large "dollar" tokens, bigger and heavier than a 50 cent piece started pouring from the machine and making a banging noise that added to everything else going on. It was wildly exciting. Two hundred of these coins spewed out but in spurts of 10 or so, the man was laughing and we were laughing. He kept talking. The money tray was filling up. He indicated to Betsy she needed to do something. Well that something was to go get some of those plastic coin cups you have probably seen. Half understanding she took off to find one. Meanwhile we had drawn something of a crowd as Betsy returned with dos cups and we starting scooping. Coins were spilling on the floor as we scooped, everyone was laughing at our good luck, and we were having too much fun.

We spent another hour or so there and walked away with $188 pesos, enough for a good dinner. It is times like these that not speaking the language takes away from - and at the same time adds to - the experience. It would have been great to know what the man was saying. He was more excited than we were and it was contagious. It was all the more humorous that we had no idea what people around us were saying. The whole scene was hilarious.

Right next to the casino is the local amusement park which from the looks on some of the faces of the children (hijos) must be pretty cool. All we could make out from our vantage point was the roller coaster.

Amusement Park Entrance

Following the crowd that had not dropped off on either the boat rides to the delta, the casino or the amusement park we found the entrance to the market. The market was large (grande) and the temperature rising as we wove our way through the vast market.

Market Entrance

This market had a much different flavor than the ones we have previously visited. There were many small specialty stores much like you would think of in the United States. There were only a few fruit markets while there were scores of household item specialty shops. Kitchen, furniture and decorative shops were the most prevalent, along with a few leather shops, baby shops, a couple of nurseries, gift shops, etc.

Home and Kitchen Shop

Wicker Shop

Lamp Shop

Local Merchandise

Gourds

The flowers (flores) below were one of the more popular items of the day. Lots of people purchased them and we were tempted. They were really well done, bright, and cheerful.

Colorful Flowers ©2011

Another Source for Flowers

Waffles on a stick. This was the first time we had seen waffles this way. We tried one filled with apple (manzana) and it was tasty. The options were fruit filling or ham and cheese and others. Did I mention chocolate?

Waffles of the World

Waffles on a Stick

After shopping a while we decided to break for lunch. We found a small restaurant where we could sit at the bar. Menus are still difficult to fully translate.

Finally Lunch!

Here are just a few more river scenes. The boats below are loosely called grocery boats and make their way up the delta to the various islands, restaurants and communities.

Grocery Boats

The river scene caught our attention because it is so unusual.

Mixed passage

Captivating

Typical Small Boat

Typical Long Boat

It was time to make our way back to the train station but decided to take the #60 bus home instead. On the way we couldn't help but notice this magnificent building.

Edificio Rio Mayor

The ride was long but brought us right to Avenida Sante Fe, a few blocks from our apartment. We bought some bread (pan) and a brownie and then stopped at the apartment briefly to put our feet up. About 9 pm we went to the local parrilla (grill) for some dinner.

What to Have?

We both had sandwiches that were delicious and decided we would come back again.

Monday in the afternoon (la tarde), we had a conversational Spanish lesson with Azul. She was great. For about an hour and a half we practiced. We talked about restaurants, vocabulary, the alphabet and worked on pronunciation. Come to find out Mollejas on the menu above are a personal favorite of our young Spanish tutor and she insists they are not to be missed. She confirmed what we were learning -- that in Argentina they eat all of the cow.

Top 5 Annoyances in Buenos Aires

Top 5 Annoyances in Buenos Aires

For the most part I will let this article in the Argentina Independent explain but I do have some comments (see below).

But first, since we are visitors here and don’t want to be seen as complainers, that article says it well:

“One of South America’s most electrifying cities, graced with European culture, architecture, atmospheric neighbourhoods and a bustling nightlife. With a variety of parks, museums, fancy restaurants, boutiques and funky bars, this city of porteños offers something for everyone. Not a weird thing many foreigners fall in love with it, you would think…”

A Beautiful Park in Buenos Aires

Top Five Annoyances in Buenos Aires

#1 This problem is not a severe as what we found in Spain but it is real. If you mistep, it takes a couple of blocks to fully get over it.

#2 It is surprising how long it takes to catch on to this one. Some of it comes in the form of a misty rain, other times it is full fledge drops which can be mistaken for the dreaded bird spillage. The all too common wet spot is a giveaway so you quickly learn to avoid those.

#3 Because of #1 and #2 it is critical to focus your eyes downward, which is helpful for this one since any mishap in this walking city would put you on the sidelines quickly. When new to the city, it’s a challenge to avoid this hazard while viewing the spectacular architecture above you. Brisk walking is a feat of extreme dexterity.

#4 We have not been exposed or disrupted by this and have only witnessed it in Plaza de Mayo (pronounced like masho) where there are always banners present. But I love a good act of civil disobediance and look forward to our first.

#5 This is a problem of  the highest magnitude. For our first week it was a total mystery. An inexplicable unavailability. Now we know. We should have noticed these signs. The other day a grocery bill came to 24 pesos, I provided 25 which resulted in a brief but intense mental tug of war. Sell not sell, how badly did I need it, each trying to figure out if the other had a reserve. It is common to get a 50-centavo deduction if the sale is important enough for the shop owner and/or you are a good bluffer. Preparing for a bus ride takes forethought since they only accept monedas.